Aug 242020

The company SainSmart kindly gave me the FlashForge Adventurer 3 made available which it is currently available on Amazon for 409.00 Euro . Since I already watched various videos about this printer after the request, it was clear to me that I wanted to test it. Because the Adventurer 3 has its strengths in the ABS / ASA area and that was exactly the crucial point for me.

As is well known, ABS / ASA requires a closed installation space so that drafts are kept away from the object to be printed. With smaller parts it may be possible without installation space, but as soon as a larger and longer pressure is applied, installation space must be available. The Adventure 3 has a print area of ​​ 150x150x150 and is therefore more suitable for smaller objects and since I only produce small parts with ABS / ASA, the print area is optimal for me. If you need a larger print area, you will not be happy with the Adventure 3 . Therefore, you should think about beforehand what you want to achieve with it.

The housing is mostly made of plastic, although I thought when unpacking that it wouldn’t work. But I was taught better and the whole case fulfills its purpose without any ifs or buts. A few optimizations still had to be made, but that’s partly down to the maker, but more on that later.

The Adventure 3 can reach a maximum nozzle temperature of 240 ° C and a maximum of 100 ° C for the heated bed. In most cases, these temperatures are sufficient for ABS / ASA. Why do I only mention these two materials? Because I don’t print a PLA with the printer, even if it works without problems, but especially with such materials you should stick to the same so that later on there are no blockages or the like. Because changing the nozzle is not that easy, although we know from current printers that you simply have to unscrew the nozzle. In Adventure 3, the entire unit has to be replaced. Anyway, I haven’t found another solution yet. Unless you convert the printer to a E3D Hotend which already has corresponding mods on Thingiverse.

On the whole, the printer makes a very solid impression, but it also has its small quirks that had to be improved. The biggest problem for me was the crooked Z-axis , because the motor is on the right side and since it is not a dual Z-axis, the motor is obviously missing on the left. This is exactly what led to the Z-axis being slightly warped and therefore a good first layer not being created. The left area was always flawless, whereas the right area has almost scratched the print bed. The remedy was to align the axis by printing out the Thingiverse level tool in advance. Then the printer has to be opened from above so that one can get to the holder of the tension belt. The level tool is attached to the axes and aligned accordingly and it works again with the first layer. This was now a quick short description, because you should watch the video on youTube, which explains it very well.

The next small problem was the print bed surface, which simply sticks too strongly, because you either wait a few hours or you lightly spray isopropanol from below so that the print part can be detached. The adhesion is simply too strong and sometimes takes too long. You can pull out this print bed and then „bend“ it so that the print part can be removed, but I was always too lazy and it is also extremely hot shortly after printing. I then simply cut an old FR4 plate to size and attached it and no more problems since then. As soon as the heating bed loses its temperature, the print object can be removed without much effort.

Next, the PTFE tube had to believe in it because I had too much leeway on the filament, so that it led to uneven printing there. Although only minimally, it still bothered me and since I still had a Capricom PTFE, I used it and therefore no more problems. But also because of the high temperatures that arise when printing ABS / ASA, it is recommended to use a PTFE that can withstand these temperatures. Other tubes could easily start to scorch and clog the filament supply. The next step was to replace the extruder pinion with one from Bondtech, as that way the recording is better. In other words, the filament has less chance that it will not be promoted. The new pinion simply holds the filament better.

A big negative point is the filament reels, because the printer is nice and small and handy, but only has one receptacle for a small 500g reel and that is a shame. The standard rolls, some of which are 750g or 1000g in size, cannot be stowed in the printer, even though there is already a recording and the roll would therefore disappear perfectly in the printer. The idea is great, because this way the filament gets the heat and is protected from the outside, but only compatible with small rolls. A mod that I was sent can help, but it consists of several parts and then larger roles would also fit in. But since I don’t have the time, I had to cut a small hole in the lid and now let the filament run into the printer from the outside. It also works flawlessly, but then the concept that Flashforge wanted was lost. Small and handy and ready for use anywhere.

Due to the fact that the Adventure 3 has an internal WLAN module, the printer can also be controlled and monitored remotely. I tried to start printing from the local network via the cloud service , but quickly let it go. The performance of the cloud service is just too slow to be fun. I had to wait several minutes until the print object was even displayed in the clound and again several minutes until it was transferred. In addition, the STL had to be converted indirectly and that was too stressful for me in the long run. Therefore I print as usual with a USB stick and Simplify3D. You have to declare in the post-procession field that the print object will be saved as a .gx (.g) file. Because normal .stl is not supported by FlashForge. First of all, it took me a few hours of research. That could have been solved better nowadays, but well, the printer is also no longer the latest, so I don’t know how it was solved with more recent models.

Shortly after switching on and connecting to my WLAN guest access, an update was immediately displayed, which I was able to carry out without any problems. The disadvantage of the story is that the camera no longer works and that should not be an isolated case, so that some makers have probably downgraded so that it works again. Another strange thing is that I couldn’t connect the printer to my normal network, but only to the guest account. I haven’t found a solution in this regard either.

By and large I can say that I really liked the Adventure 3 am satisfied. The little things from the top down to the inclined Z-axis are not of great importance because the printer does its job like this and does it properly. In the course of time there will certainly be one or the other thing that I will „ modden “ on, but currently you still depend a little on the fine tune and then we’ll see more. As soon as there is an update, I will definitely announce it. For example, the conversion to the E3D hotend would be interesting. 😉

I would like to thank SainSmart for providing the printer.

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